In words, Jeremy Quinn's exploration of time, terroir and wine

"Le terroir n'est pas une chose fixe, en termes de goût ou de perception. C'est une forme d'expression culturelle qui n'a jamais cessé d'évoluer..." J. Nossiter.

Starting in March 2010, this blog will be devoted to those who champion the transmission of past knowledge into the present: I don't naively defend tradition, or condemn 'modernity' out of hand.

So many blogs explain 'cool' new experiences in wine and food... blah blah blah... I hope to show the ephemerality of the 'new', and (perhaps) an original standard for qualitative value, a la Bergson... Join me in the effort: viva Jerez, Jura, Hvar, etc.!!

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Waiting for the onions to cook down, working on getting this site in order, drinking the Moinette Bruin 2009 from Brasserie Dupont, and regarding a press-pot-decantation of a bottle of Schiavenza 2001 Barolo, decanted yesterday, waiting for tomorrow's enjoyment. It had an odor of rosepetals and tar on Monday, inspiring a rosepetal/hibiscus tea that evening, and then it became very tannic, dry and acidic (Barolo, bien sûr), and required more air. Decanting is always an issue, but not in this case... How will it taste with tomorrow's Onion Soup/Brandade with Morels/Roasted Pheasant? On verra... A great friend's birthday is tonight, and I can't miss the party...
So I'm just home, crafting a classic French Onion Soup after a day of creating a new cheese menu for the wine bar for which I'm sommelier and now the proud and passionate cheesemonger, and after tasting through a host of terrific new arrivals from Neal Rosenthal, including an unusual range of 2008 rosés from France, which signaled the coming of Spring. As may be expected, the Côtes du Rhônes were showing beautifully, along with the Provençals, while the Bandols and Ventoux were still a bit closed...